Located 320 miles north of the Arctic Circle and 500 miles north of Fairbanks, Alaska, Utqiagvik, formerly known as Barrow, Alaska, is the northernmost settlement on the North American mainland.
Our Story Begins:
I had invited my wonderful Israeli friends, Itzik G. and his son, Ram, to join me on a cruise-tour with Holland America. We were going to start out in Fairbanks for the land portion of the Tour. But it was Itzik’s brilliant idea that we visit Barrow before we began the main trip… a massively astute suggestion for which I’ll always be grateful.
A handful of package tours from Fairbanks and Anchorage on regular Alaska Airline flights will get you to Utqiagvik / Barrow for your travel adventure – plus boasting rights to be in the northernmost part of North America.
If these packages are full (as they were when we made our plans), you can try and book your own flight, as we did from Fairbanks, and arrange for your own land tour, which is what we did
Barrow / Utqiagvik
Upon arrival to the “city” of Utqiagvik, the Barrow visitor is immediately struck by the nearly-permanently-gray sky, muddy roads, and adequate-but-functional buildings.
The “modern” side of the community is the result of Government offices, North Slope oilfield operations, and tourism.
Technically a desert…
Barrow is technically classified a desert (a difficult concept to digest), with snowfall ranging around 15 inches per year.
“Warm” means 30 to 40 degrees Fahrenheit, with winter temps dropping to 50 below zero Fahrenheit.
And, where 65 per cent of the town’s population is Native, subsistence living still plays a large part in many families.
Barrow Native Dance Club Cultural Presentation
When we landed in Barrow, I immediately contacted Will Saganna of Alaska Arctic Adventures as agreed.
Will rushed us to the Native Heritage Center to watch the Barrow Native Dance Club whose program was already in progress.
The performers were presenting cultural dances, songs and games.
To the beat of sealskin drums, several girls in native dresses and mukluks (and wearing fur gloves to keep away the spirits) demonstrated native activities such as scraping the sealskin, paddling a boat, and chopping wood…
This native presentation from YouTube will give you a small idea of the presentation we saw:
Following the performance, the presenters and hosts did a Salute to the American Flag followed by the Inupiat Blessing song.
Toys, whalebone markers and carvings made from baleen
Then the performers showed us toys and games made from animal parts — yoyos, catch-the-caribou-vertebra-on-the-sealbone-stick, and they also spun a piece of baleen on a rope to make a whirring sound.
About Baleen
Baleen is a strong, yet flexible material made out of the same substance that makes up our hair and fingernails (keratin). Baleen plates, like vertical blinds, hang from the whale's upper jaw. The baleen serve to help the whales filter out their prey from the sea water they draw into their mouths when feeding.After the cultural presentation, Will drove us to Point Barrow – three miles past the spot where typical tour buses can go.
In our van, with specially-inflated tires, Will drove over the soft Arctic “sand”, until we were “there.”
After a brief time at Point Barrow (there’s not much to see), we each received a certificate:
Will and whaling:
Will told us, as part of a team, he planned to go whaling in October… Four to five guys in a 20 to 24 foot boat… 60 to 70 miles out into the Arctic Ocean… In up to fourteen foot swells!!
Will told us that 22 whale strikes (controlled by the Alaska Eskimo Whaling Commission) were allowed each season. He told us that the previous Spring, the Natives landed nine, but lost five whales, so you can see whom the odds favor….
Will told us about another integral part of Inupiat Native heritage: Snowy Owls.
(Remember, Barrow has returned to its former name, UTQIAGVIK, which means “The place where we hunt snowy owls”).
Top place for birders!
Birders may know that Barrow is one of the top destinations in the world for the rare Ross’s gull, the Yellow-billed Loon, and the unusual King and Steller Eider Ducks.
Other “critters” of the land include White and Blue Foxes, wolves, and wolverines.
Ocean creatures include polar bears, seals, and walrus.
Fish include Arctic char, King Salmon, and Silver Salmon.
Utqiagvik Restaurants
We had some hot food in one of the local restaurants, where food was good, portions were large, and prices were high.
Barrow, understandably, is expensive, as everything must be brought in by plane (or barge, when the ice is out).
The more Will talked that day, the more I “got” Barrow — particularly the native subsistence living that still includes whaling, fishing and hunting as everyday culture.
“Even with the conveniences of the 21st century, it is the gathering and sharing of our native foods that binds our families, friendships and spirits together…” said Will.
Ever looking to preserve nature and help each other, the watchword of Will’s people is: “Only catch what you need; give in abundance to those who need.”
Sound familiar? This phrase, or a variation, is the trope of most aboriginal people I’ve encountered across the world.
The People
The Inupiat people are quiet, warm, and very proud of their heritage.
We saw how families work together, and felt their love for their community as well as for The United States.
Finally, when I asked Will how Barrow compared to “the outside world,” that he had visited, he said,
“It wasn’t like home.”
“What do you mean?” I asked.
“When I said ‘hi’ to people…they seemed cold and suspicious.”
“Not like home,” Will concluded.
For more information:
Alaska Tourism
Fairbanks Tourism
Barrow Tourism
Holland America
